Nikolaj Storm Launches Exclusive Circular Design Collection for Zalando

February 9, 2023
Fashion
a group of stylishly dressed people
  • The winner of the Zalando Sustainability Award Spring/Summer 2022, fashion designer Nikolaj Storm, has developed a circular design capsule collection
  • The collection is accompanied by an Evaluation Report by sustainability consultancy Anthesis providing transparency across the four stages of the product life cycle
  • The 13- piece genderless collection is available exclusively on Zalando

BERLIN, FEBRUARY 9, 2023 // Zalando, a leading European online fashion and lifestyle platform, launches an exclusive capsule collection by Danish designer Nikolaj Storm. In order to provide more transparency on how this collection has embraced circular design methods at each stage of a products lifecycle, a report by the global sustainability consultancy, Anthesis, accompanies the capsule collection.

The 13-piece collection named ‘SYNTHESIZER’ is inspired by fluorescent colors and the sound of electro and techno beats, as well as the cracking sound of nylon. Nikolaj made the conscious decision to help change the perception of synthetics by producing the collection only using synthetic fibers - including recycled polyester and Lycra® T400®, an inherently elastic type of polyester fibers. Nikolaj says: “The use of synthetics fibers enables durability in the garments made, allowing for repeated recycling without the product diminishing in quality. The fibers also allow for bolder colors and better retention, with clothing not losing its shape, a reason why it is used in sportswear.”

This exclusive collection has been designed by Nikolaj Storm according to circular.fashion’s Circular Design Criteria, for which Zalando has been an active partner in developing. Zalando has adapted those criteria to their existing Sustainability Criteria and launched it in 2022 to enable designers industry-wide to change the way they design products and set a clear framework for brands wanting to sell and promote such products on Zalando’s platform. Zalando has commissioned the independent sustainability consultancy Anthesis to assess the application of the circular design criteria at each stage of the product lifecycle and highlight opportunities for improvement. The full report can be found here and identifies both physical and emotional durability as challenges impacting how long clothing is worn and kept today before being discarded.

The Circular Design Criteria are built on three strategies: products are made with safe and recycled and/or renewable inputs; products are made to last longer, be repaired and potentially also carry digital product passports, allowing for flow through circular business models; and products are made to be made again, so they can be recycled or regenerated into new materials when they reach end of life.

All items in the capsule collection follow at least the minimum level of the criteria.1 Design changes have been considered to follow the criteria, such as wider seams to enable easy alteration, zips to allow products to transcend seasons by switching from trousers to shorts, and care and repair QR codes on every style to enable consumers to understand how they can extend the product life cycle.

Designing and producing a circular collection is currently quite demanding in terms of the certification process which is essential to ensure the verification of claims across all parties involved. Ultimately and due to these challenges, one of the original styles did not receive the correct certification and therefore removed from the collection. However to bring this particular piece to life in a new and innovative way Zalando partnered with THE DEMATERIALISED, a web3 ecommerce platform who closely collaborate with brands to create clothes which only exist in online spaces. To showcase the style that couldn't be physically produced, DEMATERIALISED created a digital counterpart as an AR Filter to be used on Snapchat and worn virtually.

Nikolaj Storm, Creative Director says: “This was such an empowering journey for me as a designer – to be able to create something that tries to push the industry boundaries but also stays true and honest about the process, highlighting how much it takes for a product to be circular. I wanted to create a collection that told the story and development of the process, showing that we are not fully there yet but striving to be the absolute best version that we can be at this current moment.”

Laura Coppen, Head of Circularity at Zalando says: “With Nikolaj Storm, we found a fertile collaboration ground: building on his great knowledge and design skills, we raised the bar by challenging and upskilling him on circular design. Nikolaj showcased expertise, an open mind, curiosity and flexibility to explore circular design despite the multiple obstacles and ambiguity that inevitably comes in unexplored and innovative spaces. We are thankful for this collaboration, and are excited to showcase his strong designs, together with insights and learnings on the road blocks we encountered and how we tackled them together."

1 The Circular Design Criteria are built on two levels and aim to develop products that are circular throughout their lifecycle, depending on which the requirements to be fulfilled change. The Minimum level is designed to get designers and brands introduced and aware with the complexity of circular design and to instruct them on the minimum changes and switches required on product. The Better level raises the bar and enables designers and brands already familiar with circular design to manage further complexity of e.g. even stricter certificates, blends, etc; as well as aims at connecting products with circular services and initiatives (e.g. Digital Product Passport is mandatory).

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About Zalando

Founded in Berlin in 2008, Zalando is building the leading pan-European ecosystem for fashion and lifestyle e-commerce around two growth vectors: Business-to-Consumer (B2C) and Business-to-Business (B2B). In B2C, we offer an inspiring and quality multi-brand shopping experience for fashion and lifestyle products to about 50 million active customers in 25 markets. In B2B, we are using our logistic infrastructure, software and service capabilities to help brands and retailers run and scale their entire e-commerce business, on or off Zalando. As an ecosystem, Zalando aims to enable positive change for the fashion and lifestyle industry.

ABOUT ZALANDO SUSTAINABILITY AWARD
The Zalando Sustainability Award takes place every season at Copenhagen Fashion Week which started in February 2021. The award aims to encourage fashion brands to explore sustainable alternatives and recognize strategies that contribute to a more sustainable industry. All brands that take part in Copenhagen Fashion Week were invited to apply for the award. The three finalists are chosen by an experienced international jury. The jury members closely review each brands ’sustainability strategies, including their collections and level of dedication to more sustainable advancements and innovation. The winner of the award will receive a prize of 20,000 euros, as well as a partnership with Zalando in developing an exclusive capsule collection. The collection will contribute to the sustainability conversation by exploring more sustainable solutions in design across materials, production processes, technological solutions and traceability. To further support the winning the brand in their business growth, Zalando will make a broad selection of the showcased collection available to its more than 50 million customers across 25 European markets.

ABOUT NIKOLAJ STORM
Nikolaj Storm Copenhagen was named the winner of the Zalando Sustainability Award at Copenhagen Fashion Week SS22. Nikolaj’s collection impressed the jury by displaying the brands ethos of creating more sustainable styles which enable customers to express themselves. The brand’s commitment to reducing its impact on the planet means it has worked towards avoiding waste in a closed-loop process, by producing re-designs and items made with recycled materials. The variation of more sustainable materials displayed in the collection, as well as the fresh, modern approach to genderless and diverse fashion, set it apart from the competition.
In his own words, Nikolaj describes his brand as a value driven and socially impactful brand that stands up and takes responsibility in different matters ranging from sustainability in fashion and lifestyle to social movements.