Rewriting the rules of fit in Europe: 3 key takeaways from CPHFW AW26

Moderated by Amy O’Brien (Tech Editor, Vogue Business), the panel brought together Pelin Anli Bedirhanoglu (Director of Product Management, Zalando), Leona De Graft (VP Ecommerce, Levi’s), and Dr. Helena Lewis-Smith (Body Image & Psychology Consultant). Together, they explored how new tech masters personalised fit, transforms high returns into design insights, and ensures psychological comfort for customers.

Here are three takeaways that defined the conversation.

1. The 2026 reality check: why previous tech failed

The panel opened by addressing a hard truth: virtual try-on technology is not new, but for years, it struggled to move past being a "fun" gimmick. Pelin Anli Bedirhanoglu pinpointed the root of the problem: the sheer complexity of the human form.

Pelin highlighted that Zalando’s journey has been about steady, data-driven progress rather than a "magic" fix. Since 2023, small-scale pilots with selected brands, including Levi’s, have shown significant return rate reductions (up to 40% in the jeans category), giving Zalando the confidence to launch the virtual fitting room experience at a larger scale for all customers in 2026.

For brands like Levi’s, the success of this technology depends on moving away from static images toward interactive digital tools: 

2. Psychological safety: would you really want to shop with a digital twin?

As the technology matures, a harder question follows: how does it make people feel? Dr. Helena Lewis-Smith warned that a hyper-realistic "mirror" isn't always empowering for a customer.

Zalando’s own experiments confirmed this: "Nobody wants to see their naked avatar with a precise body shape," Pelin admitted. Consequently, the focus for 2026 has shifted to "Psychological safety." The goal is to dial the technology so it remains functional and helpful for size advice without triggering negative feelings.

The "Style" factor: why math isn't everything

The final piece of the puzzle is acknowledging that "fit" is often a mix of data and personal preference. Leona De Graft explained that for a brand like Levi’s, "fit" is often a moving target dictated by personal preference and cultural trends.

"Fit is deeply personal, as are jeans: Two people with similar measurements can want very different fits. Size recommendations that don’t account for individual preferences will always feel incomplete. For example. this summer where we were selling 'jorts,' and consumers were buying much  bigger sizes to style  a really baggy look. It was just the way they were styling the product. Data is key, but personal styling also plays a really crucial role in how we’re recommending size and fit." — Leona De Graft

This is where technology and brand expertise intersect. Reviews, customer photos, styling cues, and movement all help customers imagine how a product will feel on their body — not an abstract one. To close, Helena reminded the industry that the technology is ultimately a tool for confidence:

"We want to be harnessing fashion for good and helping people feel empowered and confident. This means focusing on how clothing supports embodiment, self-expression, and identity, rather than emphasizing fit in ways that may encourage objectification and its associated negative effects." — Dr. Helena Lewis-Smith

The outlook: is standardisation dead?

The conversation concluded with a consensus that the industry must move beyond the search for a universal size chart. As Pelin put it:

"Standardisation is not the answer. Back in the tailoring days, we didn't have this problem because everything started with the body. Tech is finally helping us get back there, building the bridge between the customer’s unique body and the brand." — Pelin Anli Bedirhanoglu

At Zalando, we believe the next chapter of fit starts with transparency. By replacing the sizing "guessing game" with clearer, more consistent product data, we’re helping our customers shop with true confidence.