The collaborative process of designing Adaptive Fashion for kids and athletes with disabilities
The collaborative process of designing Adaptive Fashion for kids and athletes with disabilities
Investing in Adaptive Fashion means embracing the diverse needs of our customers and rethinking the status quo. Designing it well takes research, training of designers, and involving the disability community along every step of its creation.
Investing in Adaptive Fashion means embracing the diverse needs of our customers and rethinking the status quo. Designing it well takes research, training of designers, and involving the disability community along every step of its creation.
Zalando’s purpose to reimagine fashion for the good of all is rooted in our ethos of being #InclusiveByDesign. This ambition is reflected in Zalando’s commitment to offering a truly diverse assortment for underrepresented groups by providing product choices and thoughtful experiences in every category across price, size, and style by 2025.1
Last year, we launched Adaptive Fashion collections for five of our private label brands: Even & Odd, Zign, Pier One, Anna Field, and YOURTURN. In 2023, we embarked on developing two more Adaptive Wear collections (Sportswear and Kids). Partnering with Ottobock, a leader in mobility solutions, we conducted a host of research and development rounds to empower our designers on their journey, ensuring the disability community is involved in every step of its creation. Senior Fashion Designer Philipp Hammermeister shares his passionate insights into the process of elevating Adaptive Wear at Zalando.
Hi Philipp, what’s your role at Zalando?
I've been part of the Zalando family since 2012. Right now, I'm the Senior Designer for the specialities department of Zalando's private labels. I love diving deep into D&I projects: it's not just about the designs for me, it's about making a positive impact. I’m very happy to bring my creative ideas to the table and be a part of projects that are changing the game.
1 Underrepresented refers to a person or group of people who are inadequately represented — in this specific case, within the fashion industry across Europe.
What D&I challenges are you and your team solving at the moment?
Currently our team is in the process of launching the Adaptive Sportswear collections, while on kidswear our team is defining the perfect fits and most practical designs for the Adaptive Kidswear range. Our next exciting challenge, or ambition, is to create an underwear collection that strikes the perfect balance between comfort, practicality, and aesthetics.
What have you been working on in Adaptive Wear this past year?
In 2023, I had the fantastic opportunity to drive the design direction of our kids’ and sports’ adaptive collections. These collections are a testament to inclusivity and accessibility, embracing the diverse needs of our society. It encompasses ranges for our Private Label Kids and Sports Brands: Friboo (Kids - all gender), Even&Odd Active (Women’s Sports) and our new sportswear brand Pier One Sport (Men’s Sports).
The driving force behind this collection is ensuring that everyone can enjoy the benefits of affordable and stylish yet functional clothing. Fashion should be for everyone, and our commitment to inclusivity is at the core of our design philosophy.
What inspired you to become involved in Adaptive Design?
I took a lot of inspiration from my work in social services before I joined Zalando. I worked in retirement homes and helped older people in everyday situations. It was a great experience, and I’m glad to benefit from personal insights on dressing and supporting people with individual needs to include these in my designs.
I'm excited about the chance Zalando's given me to be part of important projects through their commitment to diversity and inclusion. It's an awesome focus area and I'm looking forward to contributing my creativity to make a real impact on the industry's future.
What was the thinking and process behind the collections?
For people with disabilities and their dedicated supporting individuals, our collection aims to provide functional, adaptable, and fashionable choices that celebrate their individuality. Whether it's adaptive sportswear for athletes with disabilities or kidswear that allows children to explore the world with ease, our collection is designed to empower and uplift. But what are their needs and how do garments support them best? We had to understand this first, which took a great deal of researching, learning and, most crucially, listening.
Since the initial launch of adaptive products on Zalando, we’ve been conducting extensive research to educate ourselves, especially now that we’re working on items for kids and sportswear. Every individual's needs can be so unique.
For sportswear specifically, we partnered with Ottobock and their athletes, incorporating feedback rounds and knowledge exchanges into the design process. After this, we invited the athletes to fitting sessions where we reviewed the products together. We gained incredible insights and used these to either push the boundaries of fashion or remove design details that might not be suitable or useful. For example, a magnetic clasp that might have been the best solution for our other adaptive textile products could be counterproductive on adaptive sportswear, because the presence of a magnet could disrupt the intricate technology integrated into a prosthesis.
Fashion should be for everyone, and our commitment to inclusivity is at the core of our design philosophy.
Philipp Hammermeister, Senior Fashion Designer
What was the most important aspect of designing these collections?
Communication is one of the most important elements and an absolute cornerstone of this project. We had amazing feedback sessions with parents of disabled kids, where they gave us direct insights into their daily lives and, most importantly, what their kids really need and want. Our insights from Ottobock feedback rounds enabled us to design a collection that empowers disabled individuals to participate in sports. Seeing their excitement while talking about our ideas that could support them in their lives and passions made me unbelievably happy and very proud to be part of this journey.
Also important is communication with the manufacturer. Explaining our vision and collections, and receiving feedback and suggestions to translate the idea into a functional product can be exciting and mind-opening.
What are your hopes and dreams for D&I at Zalando and the wider world?
My dream envisions a world where Adaptive Fashion is seamlessly integrated into mainstream collections, making it accessible to all, regardless of their abilities. This world celebrates the voices of people with disabilities, valuing their ideas and preferences in the fashion industry. Promoting diversity and inclusion, showcasing models with disabilities, and ultimately providing products that cater to their needs. Beauty comes in all forms.
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